Vintage: Jumpsuit And Sunglasses
The 70’s vibe keeps reigning this season, in garments and accessories, like denim jumpsuits and sunglasses. We went from rounded and cat-eye to rectangular models like this gorgeous La Cinnamon from Jimmy Fairly, a french brand to look out for trendy, high quality, affordable eyewear.
Jumpsuit Brief History:
The story of the jumpsuit really starts with what is properly called a “boilersuit” or “coverall.” A quintessential product of the industrial revolution, the boilersuit is a loose-fitting garment made of heavy canvas or denim, designed to protect workers’ street clothes and bodies from oil, soot, grime, sparks and other workplace hazards. As distinct from what we’d now call overalls (which consist of pants with a bib and suspenders), boilersuits cover the entire body, with a belt or elastic band at the waist and some kind of fastening that extends from navel to throat. They have a collar but usually no lapels, and often include a long, exterior thigh pocket to hold tools and interior pockets in the trousers. Similar to the conditions under which they were worn, the exact origin of boilersuits remains murky, with no one person or industry credited with their invention—though one explanation credits late 19th-century railroad workers and other mechanics, who checked and cleaned locomotive boilers. Whether these beginnings are apocryphal or not, the boilersuit would prove incredibly popular with manual laborers of all kinds, and soon spread to factories around the world.
Given their association with the proletariat, boilersuits were also popular with leftist intellectuals and activists in the 1920s and ‘30s, including many members of the Bauhaus movement, and were even used as an unofficial uniform by Republican anti-fascist forces during the Spanish Civil War. Because of their loose cut and “no-frills” vibe, these outfits also carry the connotation of gender equality, as women who fought alongside their Marxist comrades or who entered the workforce during the World Wars wore coveralls on factory floors—summed up most famously in the character of Rosie the Riveter. Ironically, early jumpsuits were also favored by Italian fascists, popularized by futurist designer Ernesto Michahelles, whose 1919 jumpsuit design looks like something you’d find on the racks at Rick Owens. Michanelles called his jumpsuit design “the most innovative, futuristic garment ever produced in the history of Italian fashion.”
Jumpsuits reached peak saturation in the mid-1970s, popular as a unisex garment for disco-lovers. Think fat Elvis or the Bee Gees circa Saturday Night Fever. Instead of emphasizing practicality, these garments attempted to cast their wearer in a sexual light. This meant a change of material and cut from the baggy and workaday, to poly-blends and terry cloth, and tighter, crotch-hugging variations. For obvious reasons, this trend fizzled out pretty quickly, and since then, jumpsuits have briefly cycled in and out of fashion, carrying with them a host of conflicting histories, uses, and symbols. This includes a brief reign in '90s, when of-the-moment fashion brands like Guess and Tommy Hilfiger turned overalls into fashion statements; appearing on the backs of hip-hop royalty, these pieces were known to be styled with one strap-on, one strap dangling off, undone.